Bottled Scent · Uncategorized

A Jasmine Gem

JasminA seemingly unobtainable perfume from a maker with a mysterious-sounding name – Ulric de Varens’ simply-titled ‘Jasmin’. I found this in my auntie’s flat all the way in Dhaka. A golden liquid in a bottle saying ‘jasmin’ on it obviously sparked curiosity and excitement.

After a google, it seemed the company is no longer active and that the scent is only sold in very specific outlets, of which the majority show that it’s unavailable anyway. After smelling the perfume, I did indeed feel that it was a rarity, not because it smelled like some complexly-crafted art or an opulent vanity of air, but because of its purity and simplicity in how it unfurls the scent of of the classic and beloved bloom of Jasminum officinale. I think the reason that finding an authentically jasmine-y smelling perfume is more challenging than it should be is, because it’s such a universally loved white floral, it’s thrown in commerco-artificially as a note at every opportunity, however obscure its resemblance to the true flower may be. It feels that this synthetic overuse of jasmine is an unintentional disregard of its natural divinity.

In contrast, Ulric de Varens’ Jasmin shines because a distinctively true Jasminum officinale is the undeniable and stunning key note. It feels concentrated (rather than exaggerated) to the point of having a particularly ‘attar-like’ quality, since the heavenly white jasmine is tinged with the goldenness of sacred oil. Mixed with the the sagaciousness of the glowing oil is also resin, precious and amber-like. Regardless of resin, the perfume skips the lush-woody phase entirely, instead transforming magically and beautifully from airy flower to golden crystal. The only source of brownness in the scent comes from the quality of the coagulating, bronzing resin. This gold-derived brownness combined with the cream-coloured euphoria of the jasmine creates a flower-powered ambrosia more divine than the richest or milkiest chocolate.

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4 thoughts on “A Jasmine Gem

  1. Jasmin is my favorite perfume of all times. Since few years ago is really difficult to find it. Some indian retail sites have it but doesn’t ship to the states. It has been a big loss for me not having Jasmin anymore.

    1. Hello Jazmin,

      I can understand your frustration! I’ve yet to come across another good jasmine soliflore, however although I have not tried this myself I would suggest to take a look at Ayala Moriel’s Yasmine which you can read about on this address: http://ayalamoriel.com/index.cfm?PageName=Scents&View=Details&PerfumeID=44 Their perfumes are natural and based on great concepts.

      In terms of a perfume that smells a lot like jasmine to me, but sambac jasmine rather than jasmine officinale, I really like Pacifica’s Tahitian Gardenia, which I’m not sure if you’ve ever smelled. The sweetness of this is rather amplified, but not artificially so. This perfume, especially the roll-on version, is quite affordable from most places.

  2. Why do you think the company doesn’t exist? When I search, the first hit brings me their website and Fragrantica says that their newest perfume is from 2016.

    I’ve never tried Jasmine, but I used to like Isa perfume from this brand. I don’t wear it any longer but I keep it as a souvenir. Your bottle looks like those they had in 80s so maybe back then they did use better ingredients. Today, at least Isa smells like not a single flower was hurt during this perfume’s production.

    1. Thank you! For me it’s Fragrance X and perfume. com – the website doesn’t show until 2 pages later! Yes, their bottles now look a lot different to mine, with no Jasmin : ( I read about Isa and it looks fantastic as I really love nutmeg – thanks for drawing it to my attention x

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